Bloody Bengaline

I got some blood red stretch bengaline on Saturday. I was umming and ahhing but then decided to buy 5m of the stuff.

I do love a bit of bengaline. Did you know that Lizzie Borden was wearing a bengaline dress when she* axe murdered her parents? The things you learn on Wikipedia!. Hers was silk though, mine isn't so murdery...

I decided to make Butterick 5281 - a retro reprint from 1946. Now I look at the Butterick website I see they've made a version in a similar red - fancy that!

Unfortunately I think it has turned out a bit mumsy (not sure of the translation of that term for our North American friends...). I'm hoping a brooch -as opposed to the fetching pin that is there now - and a belt will help. I also didn't put the shoulder pads in - I will have a think about it on my test drive tomorrow.**


It was actually a pretty straightforward sew. I didn't line the bodice, just made a facing which seems to have worked fine.

_______________________________________
*Allegedly murdered (thanks anonymous)

** Test drove frock today - garnered compliments. Easy Jane, why do you frumpify# my frocks?

#Thanks Cathie, that is the word I was looking for!

Deery me

Here's the other frock I was making while Heidi-ing.

It's made of the Joel Dewberry Deer Valley fabric featured in an earlier post. It's delightful! Made from old faithfull vintage Butterick 8149 with some wide straps trimmed with the same bias binding as I put on the top of the bodice. Skirt is good old New Look 6699 as the large scale fabric seemed to demand a-line skirt.




Hooray!

Duelling Heidis

Moggy and I were making Heidis at the same time on the weekend, and had a virtual sew-along over the innernets. Fun! We used similar prints too, which I didn't know until she had finished her muslin.

This is my Heidi number 2, which I made out of a stash fabric to test the size 34 bodice. It's a much better fit than the 36, but I think I'll need to take a smidge out of the width of the neckline on the final version as it still gaps when I move. Although it may be the open pleats causing the billowing I guess. A small bust adjustment wouldn't hurt; I think Burdas are drafted for a C cup, aren't they? I'm no C.

The fabric is from the stash, a quilting cotton from a couple of years ago called 'Touched by the Sun' by RJR. (I can't find it online anywhere now.) It really didn't need lining, but I lined it for extra practise before doing the vintage fabric version. With the thick cotton lining it feels substantial, like a vintage frock. I'm enjoying that.
I am debating whether to do this skirt on the final version. There are 7 pieces (including the pockets) which make up just the front of this skirt, yikes! I do love the pockets, but a simpler skirt (like on Moggy's version yesterday) would look fine too, since the details are lost on these busy prints. I could always put in side seam pockets. What do you think?

I am Heidi (and so can you!)*

I finally got back into sewing this weekend - it felt fab.

Why did it take me so long to get onto the Heidi bandwagon? She's a good quick sew, and just plain lovely! I shoulda know when such stylish and tasteful sewing ladies such as Livebird, Erin Dressaday and my sewing compadre kitty have made such nice frocks.

Here's my (very) wearable muslin:

Changes:
7cm length added to bodice (it's rather a highwaisted pattern, and I'm longwaisted at the best of times) - thanks to Livebird for this one!

I didn't use the Heidi skirt -as I've said before, Burda do seem to put fussy (in my opinion) details on their patterns that seem to make things fiddly to make. Also, you wouldn't have been able to see the centre panel etc it in the busy pattern. I used the plain pencil skirt from New Look 6699, and made the darts into pleats.

I made it in a stretch woven I got for $2.50/m at Spotlight - if (when!) I make this in a non-stretch I'll need to add a couple of centimetres. I might change the back bodice pleats into darts, but I'll see how I feel when I've testdriven the frock tomorrow.

I think I'll make it out of the rose on the right here. I've made a frock in the deer print on the left, but that isn't quite finished yet... and now I wish it was a Heidi.


* with apologies to Stephen Colbert.

Frock in a Jiffy

I was going to make another Heidi today, but as we head into winter next week, I fancied making something I can wear in the next two or three months!

I found some wool interlock (I think) in the stash, and used Simplicity 4429. I wanted more of a cap sleeve, so I added a few centimetres at the shoulders, and added a little depth to the underarm.

It really, really needs to be belted though. It's basically a slim sack. Not pretty. But pretty with a belt, yay! I love this frock!

It is a great background for brooches. I've been going a bit mad for vintage brooches on ebay
lately; in fact I bought two just last night, inspired by Tom and Lorenzo's Joan Holloway post. If you haven't yet discovered their Mad Style posts, you are in for a treat.

Heidi Ho

I have some vintage fabric and I couldn't decide on a pattern for it. I think it's rayon, it's got that crispy acetate hand, and it's quite thin. I pulled out all my vintage patterns, but I had a feeling I could easily end up in the 'matronly' arena with this particular print.

I took out my modern patterns, but turns out my tastes run more to the vintagey looks in modern patterns too.

So I downloaded Burda 6016, the very popular Heidi dress. There are some sweet frocks on those links.

I haven't done a download-and-tape-together-pattern before. It's not difficult, but it is time consuming. It took me over an hour to fold and tape. Then I traced the 36, which was closest to my measurements. I haven't made many Burda patterns, and I'd heard they have less ease than other commercial patterns. I knew I had to make a muslin before cutting into the 'good' fabric.

I'm glad I traced, because I will need to trace the smaller bodice next time.

I used the rest of the 70s sheet I used to underline the silk shift and because I will be lining the vintage fabric version, I also fully lined it, in white calico, for a practise run. I didn't follow the instructions to the letter for the lining, because they instruct you to handsew the lining to the zipper tape. Ha! No chance! I put the skirt lining in before doing the zip, basted the outer fabric and lining together at the side opening, and then put the zip in. In the right side of the dress as it happens; I got my left and rights mixed up. It's an invisible zip so it doesn't matter.

Why are side zips always on the left anyway, anybody know?

Here she is, with the hem very roughly pinned up. I haven't decided on the length yet. I want to ruminate on it.

Here she is with a belt. Looks better with a belt. I didn't make the belt which came with the pattern, it would have got lost in this print anyway. And, it's a muslin. Too much effort, way too much laziness.

Love those pockets!

It does look like it fits in the photos, but the bodice is too big. It's fine when I stand still with my shoulders back, but if I move the shoulders slip down and the neckline billows out like a spinnaker. Maybe I should do some pintucks, like this one.

This is the fabric I want to use, maybe with a matching cummerbund, for extra fanciness. What do you think?

Tell the bride the wedding can go ahead!

Thank you interweb friends, for your sympathy and your suggestions on how to fix this frock.

I bit the bullet and took Lsaspacey's advice (special 'mwah' to you!), and released the front darts, even though this meant undoing the overlocked and hand-stitched hem and pulling off the interlining. Ugh.

But it's worth it to have a wearable dress! I can move! (and eat, and laugh, and sit...)

Salvage operation

Yesterday's frock again.

I took out the zip, and clawed back about a centimetre of ease by sewing it back in on a smaller seam allowance. Of course the zip was one of the best I'd ever done, and *sob* it's not as neat and even now. (no one else will notice, but still, annoyment).

It feels a bit better, but doesn't look too different. I might make a stand-by frock from the rest of this fabric (because, Carol-of-the-comments, I do want to eat at the wedding...why else does one go to a wedding if not for a free feed?)

I shall shop the pattern stash.

Silk shift

I have a wedding to attend later in the year, and was talking of my desire for turquoise silk to Ms Moggy. I put it out there, and before I could say 'why-don't-I-make-a-too-tight-sheath-dress', Moggy scored me nearly 4 metres of turquoise/red silk dupioni for $10 total! Well Ms Mog, now
I'm dreaming about a million dollars, small bills. You should get on that.

I made New Look 6736 again, but forgot I made it in a stretchy fabric last time didn't I? Sigh. Here it is, much too tight over the bewbs and mid section. I even bought a vintage brooch on ebay to wear with it, as you can see in the close up.

I did teeny seams, and I suppose I could let out the darts a bit, but the thing is I underlined it. I never underline anything. I'd have to undo all that to alter it. Erm, not gonna happen. I bought these new-old-stock sheets at an auction you see, and the blue/green ones just looked so cute with the fabric. It does stop the silk wrinkling too.

Oh well. It's a cute frock, and I do have enough to make another, slightly bigger version. I just can't see that happening though, I've kind of moved on.

Shopping (sorta) Fail

I've just come back from four weeks in the USA (California, Arizona, New Mexico) and did very minimal stuff shopping - even though I did visit the LA Fabric district (huge!) a JoAnn's or two (99c patterns! But only Simplicity!).

I bought three pairs of the same shoes from Re-Mix (in red, olive green and black):


3 yards of fabric from Michael Levine in the fabric district:

One 99c pattern from JoAnn's (pretty similar to the Vogue fauxlero, but nice cowly bit):


and... an iPad fell in my bag. Oops.

I did also eat lots of tasty foods and drove up Route 66 and went on 360 degree roller coasters and saw lovely rocks and the Grand Canyon and mid-century houses in Palm Springs and general silliness in Las Vegas and lovely Santa Fe and Albuquerque and Ham the Space Monkey's suit and capsule and a Sputnik and the site of the atomic bomb testing and Smokey the Bear museum and Zion National Park and Monument Valley and lava and White Sands and and and....

Pattern purchases at the Vintage Show

I went to the Sydney Vintage Clothing, Jewellery and Textiles Show last weekend. I managed to go on the opening Friday night, which I have always wanted to do.
It was good as usual, but I didn't find any have-to-have fabrics or accessories. I did try on a pair of vintage 40s shoes which were gorgeous and fit me perfectly, but they were well out of my price range.

These patterns were in my price range though.
I'm going through a 60s shift/sheath phase, in my mind.
In my mind because after 3 and a half weeks of house guests, there has been no sewing here.

No sewing on this public holiday either. Too many sheets and towels to wash, and I still have to set up my sewing room again.









I had to buy Style 2323 (below), because it is the same as the dress I copied in this post. It will be fun to compare my drafted pattern to this one. Once the washing is done.

A pittance of sewing

A pittance is all I have to show you after all this time.

A couple of weeks ago I started to make vintage Simplicity 6672 (sometimes called the Goddess dress). I started sewing a muslin out of polyester jersey, but we are in week 2 of having a houseguest for 3 weeks (eeeee! 3 weeks!) and I just can't sew when I have guests, unless they are sewing friends of course.

I am going a bit crazy with the not sewing.

I am going to show you the frock, with the hem awkwardly pinned, the armholes unfinished, and the seams all puckery because this is stoopid poly jersey and despite a walking foot and jersey needle and stretch stitch it's the best I could do.

I don't know whether I'll finish it looking at that photo. I think it looks better in real life. If I do finish it I'll have to wear it to places where I won't be photographed! Or just ditch this one and make it in a nicer fabric.

I don't usually do muslins, but this is a very different style for me. As it is I took heaps of volume out of the skirt because I only had 2 metres of fabric. I don't think I'd like it with a very heavy skirt. What do you think? Worth finishing, make it in a nicer knit, or give up?