Sunday, May 23, 2010

Heidi Ho

I have some vintage fabric and I couldn't decide on a pattern for it. I think it's rayon, it's got that crispy acetate hand, and it's quite thin. I pulled out all my vintage patterns, but I had a feeling I could easily end up in the 'matronly' arena with this particular print.
I took out my modern patterns, but turns out my tastes run more to the vintagey looks in modern patterns too.

So I downloaded Burda 6016, the very popular Heidi dress. There are some sweet frocks on those links.
I haven't done a download-and-tape-together-pattern before. It's not difficult, but it is time consuming. It took me over an hour to fold and tape. Then I traced the 36, which was closest to my measurements. I haven't made many Burda patterns, and I'd heard they have less ease than other commercial patterns. I knew I had to make a muslin before cutting into the 'good' fabric.
I'm glad I traced, because I will need to trace the smaller bodice next time.

I used the rest of the 70s sheet I used to underline the silk shift and because I will be lining the vintage fabric version, I also fully lined it, in white calico, for a practise run. I didn't follow the instructions to the letter for the lining, because they instruct you to handsew the lining to the zipper tape. Ha! No chance! I put the skirt lining in before doing the zip, basted the outer fabric and lining together at the side opening, and then put the zip in. In the right side of the dress as it happens; I got my left and rights mixed up. It's an invisible zip so it doesn't matter.
Why are side zips always on the left anyway, anybody know?

Here she is, with the hem very roughly pinned up. I haven't decided on the length yet. I want to ruminate on it.

Here she is with a belt. Looks better with a belt. I didn't make the belt which came with the pattern, it would have got lost in this print anyway. And, it's a muslin. Too much effort, way too much laziness.
Love those pockets!

It does look like it fits in the photos, but the bodice is too big. It's fine when I stand still with my shoulders back, but if I move the shoulders slip down and the neckline billows out like a spinnaker. Maybe I should do some pintucks, like this one.

This is the fabric I want to use, maybe with a matching cummerbund, for extra fanciness. What do you think?


moggyo said...

De-lightful! I think she'll turn out well in the proposed fabric - and the cummerbund is a great idea.

But then again, when isn't a cummerbund a good idea?

Vireya said...

Cute dress! It should look great in your vintage fabric.

I suspect that side zips are on the left so that you can operate them with your right hand.

lsaspacey said...

Wow, I especially like the muslin fabric. Will you finish it and wear it also?

Anonymous said...

Oh, I love the vintage fabric you're using! I think it looks lovely. I also think Heidi would look great with an obi type cummerbund... that's how I'm planning to make one someday. I agree that the side zip on the left is part of the tyranny of the right-handed. My husband is a leftie, and I hadn't realized before how many things are set up to be hard if you aren't right handed! I can't wait to see the finished dress!

Handmade said...

Great dress design - the pockets are a good idea - love the vintage fabric and go the cummerbund!

Gail said...

I think this is a winner for you (especially belted). Your muslin looks very wearable to me.

Nadia said...

Great dress!

Definitely best when belted.

livebird said...

Thing one: it looks like you're wearing my pillowcases again.

Thing two: I put the zip on the right or in back because the curve in my spine means a left zipper always sits funny.

Thing three: a warning. Heidi does not allow for much arm movement. Mine tore - not just seams, fabric - on front of the cap sleeve, and just with normal wear, not crazy aerobic flailing or anything. I patched and mended but suspect it will happen again. I think underarm gussets would help.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

That is looking very cute! The belt really does add to it.